Implacable is the word that comes to mind at the first sip of the 2021 Messorio. Making wine in Bolgheri has only gotten more complicated in the last vintages, and most people would point to Merlot vineyards as the place the impending storm will first hit, but like a lighthouse whose light is better appreciated not despite but because of inclement conditions, Le Macchiole's Messorio seems to shine more brightly under duress. A beacon of light. Drink 2028-2041, or when you find yourself on a dark path.

The 2021 Messorio (Merlot) is a wine of pure and total sensuality. Dark, layered and enveloping, the 2021 boasts notable textural richness from start to finish. Dark red-toned fruit, spice, mocha, new leather and licorice fill out the layers effortlessly. There's plenty of energy and depth to balance some of the more overt qualities. These days, Messorio is not as opulent as it was during the 1990's when it became an iconic wine in Italy, but the natural suitability of Maremma for producing exotic, sumptuous Merlots simply can't be denied. The 2021 spent 16 months in French oak barrels, with a small amount of the wine (7%) that was aged in stoneware amphora. It is a superb effort from Le Macchiole.

A vivid merlot on the nose with plum, berry, clove and cedar aromas, as well as undertones of bark and five spices. Full-bodied yet balanced and energetic, with driving acidity and fine tannins that frame the wine nicely and add energy and verve. Sweet tobacco to the fruit. Best after 2029.

The dark red 2021 Messorio has similar depth and complexity, with aromas of blackberries, red plum, turned soils and savory herbs. The palate is rich and layered as well, with a plush richness in its chalkiness, and it's much more expressive at the moment, with aromas of cedar, plum, mocha, and leather. It's full-bodied and expands through the palate, with broad-shouldered tannins, mouthwatering saltiness, and a savory and mineral-noted finish that lasts long on the palate. This is a commanding vintage of this wine that will take time to unfurl. Drink 2027-2050.