A harmonious version, with a well-integrated frame of firm acidity and a fine, lively bead carrying notes of chopped almond, black currant, lemon pith and cherry blossoms. Reveals a streak of salty minerality on the finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged January 2023. Drink now through 2026. 417 cases imported.

The NV Extra Brut L'Atavique Tradition is a dazzling wine. Deep and resonant on the palate and yet finely-cut, the Atavique captures the combination of fruit intensity and tension that is the signature of Verzy. Bright, saline notes give energy to this Pinot-heavy NV Champagne from Mouzon-Leroux. The blend is 80% 2013 and 20% 2012/2011, 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. What impresses me most, though, is flashes of brilliance that suggest what future wines here might be like. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 2018.

The NV Champagne L'Atavique Tradition Extra Brut is 65% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, with 50% from the 2018 vintage. It was raised in 80% French oak and 20% stainless steel. It is vinous and savory with mineral expression, with dark notes of plum, wet asphalt, and broth. The palate is balanced and crunchy, with wet rock, kirsch, and hay. Offering persistence and density without feeling heavy, its gastronomic style has a lightly natural feel. Drink over the next 10 years.